Why is the classic shave back in fashion?

Fashion develops in a spiral. Now, more than ever, vintage and retro style is in trend. In addition, in the current era of digital technologies and fast food, there is an especially acute need to slow down ... and not run, ... stop, ... live the moments of your life consciously, slowly and with pleasure. The classic wet shave is part of that approach to life. This is not a daily routine, but a pleasant aesthetic ritual, a manifestation of care and attention to your loved one.

A straight razor shaves better than any T-bar. It's an axiom, which has not been refuted over the past 300 years, since the creation of a dangerous razor of a modern look, nothing more functional has been invented and will not be invented. We do not consider the Egyptians with their copper scrapers. A straight razor is the perfect shaving tool.

What is the dangerous razor shaving technique made of, how to shave correctly, what should a beginner pay attention to? A novice user needs to master a few key skills.

Grips, holding the razor

Grips, holding the razor, are divided into "canonical" and free. The canonical grips are the grips that barbers are taught to hold the razor with the point down (a) and the point up (b).

To change the direction of the shave, the brush flips the razor 180 degrees - it's simple. All other retention methods are free. Practice itself will tell you one or another grip, which will be convenient for you to shave certain places on your face. When mastering grips, even before shaving, learn right away relax your hand . Tension in the hand never will not allow you to shave properly and safely. A relaxed hand will quickly learn everything you need. You can learn how to properly shave with a straight razor with both your right and left hands. For faster development of motor skills of the left hand, try brushing your teeth with it.

Shave as you like, as your hand allows, then you will find your style. Do not imitate anyone, do not watch videos of “swaggering gurus” on YouTube, many of them have shaved twice and spread their “rich experience and smart advice” to you.

When shaving, in the cut area, the skin must be taut. If you allow a “wave” of skin in front of the blade, then immediately start this “wave”, cut off the top layer of skin. It is not necessary to stretch the skin too much - it is enough to create a slight tension in order to get a high-quality cut. Someone manages to create the required skin tension in the right place and at the right time with facial expressions, head tilt. Someone helps with a hand. Shave as you please. The direction of hair growth on the face of each person is very individual, here lies the answer to the question: “why can’t I shave some areas around the neck with a dangerous razor, but I can do it well with a machine?”. Answer: “Especially in the neck area, the direction of hair growth can change randomly.” The length of the cutting edge of the machine blade is 3.5 - 4 cm and you can change the direction of the cut by 360 degrees. In this case, almost the entire cutting edge of the blade has contact with the skin. With dangerous razors it is somewhat more difficult, the standard length of the cutting edge is around 7 cm. If this question is fundamental to you, pay attention to the old (not a remake !!!) Japanese razors with a working edge length of 4 - 5.5 cm, folding kamisori (Folding Kamisori) or short wedges. I don't remember any other manufacturer making razors with such a short cutting edge.

Choosing a shaving product (very important)

Next is the question of choosing shaving products: soap, foam, shaving gel, everything that will make it easier to cut the bristles, ensuring that the blade glides smoothly over the skin. This question is again very individual for everyone, so there are no unequivocal tips, only your selection of what suits you best. From myself I will add that the difference in shaving comfort is very different depending on the chosen product. With one foam for 250 rubles I shave much more comfortable than with other foam for 800 rubles, I will not name brands. Soap with a horse price tag of 3,000 rubles per 40 grams causes skin irritation for me. Be sure to experiment on yourself and do not listen to anyone. I recommend that you start shaving using gel. From my point of view, shaving gel is the most versatile tool. Shaving gel provides the best glide of the blade, due to the higher content of glycerols, does not dry out as quickly as foam or soap. Even if For Woman is written on the gel - take it, you will not be disappointed.

Preparing your face before shaving with a straight razor

To prepare the face for shaving, it is necessary to clean the skin and bristles from dirt and sebum, moisturize the bristles. It is to cleanse and moisturize, not steam. By steaming the bristles, you steam out the skin and it becomes looser, therefore, more prone to cuts. Hair is hydrophilic, it absorbs water. Absorbing water, the hair increases in diameter up to 20%. Wet, swollen hair loses stiffness and is much easier to cut. It is much more difficult to wet hair protected by sebum. Shaving gel is applied to clean and moistened bristles. This is the necessary minimum. The easiest option is to shave after a shower. Razor - gel - hand - everything.

The miracles with hot towels in hairdressing salons, shown in many videos, are understandable in terms of process technology. Temperature reduces the time for cleansing and swelling of the bristles, hot moisture removes sebum better, that's all the sacrament. Of course, you can use this technique at home, as you like. I think this is redundant in the presence of a shower with warm water.

Safety shaving technique

Recommended razor directions are shown in the illustrations. The first pass is done in the direction of hair growth, the second - against. I want to draw your attention to shaving such difficult areas as the mustache and chin area. The second pass on these zones is done parallel to the lip line. This is enough for a good shave. At the beginning of the development of the shaving technique, do not try to shave in these areas against hair growth, the hair in these areas is as hard and thick as possible (individually). Shaving these areas requires a certain amount of skill. The main difficulty will be in working out the movements when moving from the chin to the neck and vice versa. Pay close attention to the angle of the blade to the skin during this transition. Hammer in your head two conditions for success: don't rush, don't push.

Now about the technique of shaving the bristles. The first thing to take care of is not to watch videos on the Internet where people shave with dangerous razors. Everything that is shown there is in 90% of cases - the wrong technique. Amateurs, having learned from the same amateurs, distribute garbage videos and mislead newcomers. Namely, the people without exception shave with a straight pull of the razor (noted for 2010), perpendicular to the cutting edge - i.e. imitate the movement of a T-shaped machine, only do it with a straight razor. This means that a straight razor is put in a row for a shaving competition with razors on "their field". It should be noted that the profile of the blades in the machines was created specifically for such work, and a straight razor was created for a completely different cut. Of course, you can shave like that, but why learn to shave the wrong way so that you can relearn it later? Only occasionally come across videos on which you can see the correct course of the razor - an oblique cut. I strongly advise you to carefully, many times, look.

BASICS:

first law: the razor shaves under its own weight, the hand only sets the direction of the cut - this is the formula for success. You must realize that shaving is not due to the effort of the hand, but due to the inertia of the razor blade itself. The force and the wrong direction of the cut, pulling the blade along the working edge are cuts. If you still have to make an effort when shaving and there is a feeling that the razor catches the bristles, skips the hair - stop, most likely the razor is not sharpened.

The exception is the mustache and chin area (hard bristles), when shaving these areas against hair growth. In this case, the resistance is very felt. Reduce blade travel in these areas to 5mm. With insufficient skill, it will not be possible to shave with any razor otherwise.

In the process of shaving, a dangerous razor should slide smoothly over the skin, the inclination of the razor blade to the skin should not exceed 15-20 degrees, this is a butt slightly raised above the skin, nothing more.

second law: - a dangerous razor is designed for a "oblique" cut. There are two angles in hairdressing textbooks - the angle of the razor to the skin (15-20 degrees), and the mowing angle (30-40 degrees) - i.e. the angle of the "descent" of the razor with the line of movement in a straight line, if you build a perpendicular to the cutting edge. Pay attention to this circumstance, because. in many articles, and often these are just reprints from old textbooks or manuals for hairdressers, there is a mention of an angle of 30-40 degrees without explaining what this angle is. Beginners understand it as the angle of the blade to the skin - it's just an abnormally huge angle! For smooth and easy hair cutting, the razor should be moved over the skin with a cutting edge not perpendicular to the direction of the cut section of hair, and at a certain angle (30-40) - so that there would be a cutting movement either towards the head or the heel of the razor. A razor with an oblique cut should work cleanly and not disturb.

To better imagine the process of shaving, take a loaf of bread and a knife. First, try to cut through the bread by direct pressure with the entire cutting edge of the knife on the bread from top to bottom. In this case, you will get a model of stubble shaving with a machine that cuts hair when the direction of the razor is perpendicular to the line of the cutting edge. Now try, pressing on the knife, move it at an angle of 30-40 degrees in the direction of the cut. If the knife is well sharpened, it will go into the bread “like butter”, without noticing the obstacle. This is the correct shave. Any movement of the razor should be at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the perpendicular line of the cutting edge. This will be the very correct “oblique” cut that was taught to hairdressers. This process has one more explanation - the kinematic transformation of the sharpening angle. If someone is interested in the scientific rationale for proper shaving, then you can read . In general, a straight razor is a tool for smart and curious people. Here are the most illustrative illustrations of the transformation of the sharpening angle, proposed by the respected Tras Krom. Two leaves from the sticker are folded in half with the same angle - a prototype of the cutting edge of a razor. One of the models was cut off at an acute angle. The line of movement of the razor is drawn with a pencil, sheets of paper are attached to the line of movement - see how the angle of the razor has changed along the “oblique cut”. It decreased, despite the fact that the angle of sharpening remained the same! The following diagram compares a "bevel cut" with a straight pull razor, also made by Tras Krom.

For a long time he could not understand the kinematics. The meaning is very simple - you can cut the hair "immediately - straight." You can cut hair by changing the position of the blade. The path of cutting the hair will be somewhat longer, but at the same time we will get what is described! There is a criterion by which you need to navigate - this is the comfort of shaving. If you feel discomfort when shaving, then the angle of the blade should be lowered slightly so that there is only a feeling of lightly stroking the blade on the skin. Any feeling of “cling” of the razor to the bristles or something like that is a signal either about an overestimated angle of the razor, or about the absence of an oblique cut, or about the poor quality of sharpening or the razor itself.

Be sure to take into account the possible discomfort at the beginning of learning how to use a straight razor. The skin is not accustomed to such exposure, it often takes some time. Be patient, this is important. Immediately and cool without experience is rare.

Foam and water while shaving categorically should not flow down the erl to the area of ​​​​the upper pin. The correct consistency of the foam, this is the "cap". It should remain on the blade along with the shaved stubble, but it should not be dried out or very thick. When rinsing the suds off the blade, always hold the razor with the tip down. The water temperature should be around 40 degrees, in no case boiling water under 80 degrees, which is possible from the tap.

Avoid moisture in the area of ​​​​the upper axis, this is simple, but very important. You cannot remove moisture from there, this is the main focus of razor corrosion. Hand, which you shave must stay dry for the entire shaving process- this rule will keep your razor from rust for decades. When you shave, have a towel nearby on a flat surface where you can always safely rest an open razor if your fingers feel moisture from dripping foam. Dry your hand, clean the blade and razor earl, continue.

There was a case that I remember very well: I tore off the napkin from the roll, the napkin was hard and dense, and it so happened that, while passing the napkin over the razor blade, I touched the cutting edge with it, stretching the napkin perpendicular to the edge of the blade. The sound alarmed me. As a result of studying the working edge with professional optics, I saw a micro bend on half of the RC. Such a razor will no longer shave and the belt will not correct the situation. The tip of the RK straight razor is a very delicate matter. Any, even a light touch on a solid object, leads, as a rule, to its damage. On the other hand, straight razor RK is an extremely durable tool that, when properly used, does not lose its cutting properties for many months. Somewhere I saw calculations that during one shave the working edge of the razor experiences loads comparable to the loads when cutting a horn with a diameter of more than 1 cm. By its structure, the hair is a horn tissue.

Tips for beginners about straight razor shaving.

If you are just starting to shave, don't try to shave completely the first time. it is very important! With your diligence, you will only spoil your further desire to use a straight razor because you will cut off everything that is possible on your face and get severe skin irritation. One two hair growth passage one two passage - against. At the very beginning, I generally do not advise shaving against hair growth. Get better with what you usually use - the machine. This is fine. It will be possible to shave completely and qualitatively with a dangerous razor from 6-10 times. The most important thing is not to rush. There should not be any pressure on the razor, watch the angle of the blade to the skin, control the direction of the cut, nothing complicated.

The quality of shaving, it is better to evaluate 30 minutes after shaving. Immediately after shaving, the skin is still irritated (again, everything is individual) and what can be assessed as poor shaving is actually a quickly passing irritation of the hair follicles.

Full understanding, a sense of control over the process of dangerous shaving will come in a couple of months. It may seem like a long time, but it's worth it. Some users manage to master the technique of shaving faster.

Before the dangerous razor, I had constant irritation in the neck after shaving with any cost of machines, now I forgot about it.

See the best , which is found in the open spaces. Try to see and understand these movements. Follow the rule of "oblique cut" - the cutting edge should not move perpendicular to the direction of the cut, the blade should move towards the nose or heel (30-40 degrees). Hussars are not needed - a saber across the whole face. Short and light cutting movements with the blade. Calm, relaxed and not rushed.

First understand mentally how a straight razor should work, and then translate this knowledge into the ability to do this work with your hands. If the brain accurately understands the model, the hands will quickly learn to work correctly.

That's all the secrets of straight razor shaving, good luck.

Used materials from the site http://razorsharp.ru

The straight razor was at one time undeservedly forgotten by the majority of the male population, since Gillette's T-shaped machines, and then electric shavers, appeared in everyday life. Working with them is not so traumatic for beginners, but not so high quality. A straight razor helps you shave your face cleanly without irritation.

What is a straight razor

The second name of the tool is a bladed razor, in everyday life “fear”. The working part is a wide blade made of carbon or stainless steel. The blade has a head of various shapes (round, rectangular or "French"), a back (the blunt side of the blade), and a recess. The greater the depth and width of the blade, the better it adapts to the contours of the face. The tail of the working part is movably connected to a long handle, in which the blade is hidden after work is completed.

The most popular "fears" are produced in the German city of Solingen - once the second world shaving center (the first is Sheffield). Manufacturers Dovo, Thiers-Issard and Bismarck are especially valued by true lovers of "fear", but it is difficult to find genuine samples in stores, it is better to order them on the Internet on specialized sites. The Japanese "fears" Titan proved to be quite good. How much does a straight razor cost? On average, the price starts from 6,000 rubles (we are talking about a branded sample), but such an investment is durable, because the tool will last more than one year.

Shaving with straight razor

The procedure requires a certain level of skill. For beginners, the first interaction with a straight razor is rarely successful, and the results are worse than after using a T-shaped or power tool. The hand becomes firm and professional after about a hundred uses. The main components of safe and high-quality shaving are calmness, confidence in your actions, measured movements and compliance with all the rules.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before learning how to shave with a straight razor, every man wants to make sure that he has chosen a worthy alternative. The blade tool has the following advantages:

• Low cost for a good item. If a blade is well cared for, it can last a lifetime.
• The tool provides smooth-shaven skin, does not irritate the face.
• The blade is almost always sharp, so it does not pull out hairs and does not stretch the skin.
• Fear is easy to handle.
• Using a bladed tool, it is easy to model a beard and mustache.

There is a "fear" and cons:

• An inexperienced person can easily get hurt while shaving.
• It takes a long time to learn how to use a straight razor.
• The tool must be protected from moisture, well lubricated. In addition to it, you need to purchase a leather belt and abrasive paste.
• The blade needs to "rest" for at least 2 days after use. If you have a need to shave more often, you should consider purchasing another tool or a whole set.

Preparation

How to shave with a straight razor without risking your own health? You need to be well prepared for the procedure. You should have at your disposal:

• blade razor;
• grindstone;
• leather belt needed for editing;
• shaving brush (preferably from badger hair);
• shaving foam or gel;
• hot water tank;
• mirror;
• powder to stop blood from cuts.

When all the inventory is collected in one place, you can start shaving. Preparation Guide:

1. The beard needs to be warmed up - take a shower or apply a hot towel tightly to the face (do this twice).
2. Fill a container with very hot water and dip the brush into it.
3. Take out the shaving brush, squeeze out the remaining water from it.
4. Apply to a wet face or squeeze foam into a bowl, beat it with a brush.
5. Cover your face with a thick layer of foam. She should lie down in dense peaks.
6. If the hair is too coarse, wait 5 minutes and then lather again.

Technique

How to shave a man with a straight razor? It is necessary to carry out short movements, tilting the blade at an angle of 15-20 ° to the plane of the skin. The cutting edge shaves, not the hand, i.e. you create a kind of acceleration, and the blade shaves hair by inertia. In this case, you need to ensure the correct angle of inclination of the blade and set the trajectory. Hold the knife with three fingers in front of the handle.

In order for the straight razor to move easily, move it not with the entire plane, but at an angle of 30-40 ° (cutting angle) towards the cut area of ​​​​the hair. The razor head will constantly wedged into the treated area. At the same time, stretch the skin slightly. You should not feel like a razor shaves. All clinging to the bristles indicate that the blade needs to be sharpened or handed over for repair.

How to shave your beard and mustache

When all the preparatory procedures have been completed, you can get down to business. How to shave for a man:

• Start cleaning your face from the side of your dominant hand. Stretch the skin and in short strokes move the straight razor from the temple to the side of the chin.
• Move the blade along the hair growth.
• One pass with a sharp blade is enough to clean the skin of hair well.
• With the same movements, slowly shave your cheeks, chin, and neck.
• It is easy to model the contours of the beard with "War" because you will know exactly where to stop. With its help you will create your own style.
• To ensure that certain areas of the face are perfectly clean, run the blade across the skin across and against hair growth.
• How to shave your mustache with a straight razor? It is worth moving only in the direction of hair growth, otherwise you risk injuring your nose.

How to shave stubble

In this case, it is necessary to use the blade in the same way as when shaving a beard and mustache. It doesn't matter if it's a modern razor, Soviet or foreign antiques: the main thing is that it be sharp. Your head should be calm, and you are focused on business. Action algorithm:

• Get ready. Consider the recommendations for hard bristles (hot towel, shower, plenty of foam and gel).
• Shave your face using all of the above techniques. If your hair is very thick, use two straight razors alternately.
• Remove the remaining foam with cold water, this will help close the pores.
• Dry the razor, straighten it and oil the blade.

Straight razor sharpening

The tool must be sharpened periodically, since a dull blade is often more traumatic than a sharp one. A straight razor with replaceable blades does not need this procedure. The stationary blade is sharpened like this:

• Soak a whetstone at 1000-6000 grit with water. The surface of the stone must be absolutely flat.

The habit of shaving is rooted in the distant past, so this process is well known to any man. True, then the “tool of labor” had little in common with modern devices, but the essence of the procedure has not changed. But even today, not everyone knows how to shave with a straight razor.

The most "capricious" razor

If there are practically no problems with modern tools, then the use of a straight razor raises many questions and prejudices. She is by far the most demanding. At first, use it slowly and carefully so as not to damage the skin.

It is important not only to learn how to shave with a straight razor, but also to know that it must be looked after and properly sharpened. Then the procedure will bring only pleasure, since one pass shaves off a fairly large amount of hair. Such a blade is especially popular among aesthetes and connoisseurs of the classics. Most often it is made of stainless and carbon steel, which is quite justified.

Dry shaving

This type of removal of unnecessary bristles means that there is no need to moisturize the skin. You can shave with mechanical, electric or electromechanical shaving machines. The treated areas will not be very irritated, but the hairs will grow back very quickly. The need to shave every day can be considered the main disadvantage of this method.

Wet shave

To figure out how to shave with a straight razor, you need to understand that it is used to shave with moisturizing the skin. This method is also suitable for safe machine applications. This is a fast and reliable method that gives good results: the stubble grows back much longer than after dry shaving. But you should be aware that irritation may appear, which even high-quality gels and balms do not always cope with. This is especially true for the winter period.

What do you need for a dangerous shave?

Closer shaving hasn't been as popular lately as it used to be, but it still has its merits. The most important thing that is needed for the procedure is a straight razor. There are models from different manufacturers on the market, so the choice is quite large. To understand how to hold a straight razor, you need to know that it consists of a handle and a blade, which is made from steel of a special composition. The material has properties that help heal minor wounds and scratches.

An important accessory is the belt for editing. It can be suspended type or stretched on a special bar with a handle. An abrasive paste and brush will also come in handy. It is used to apply a cream that forms a thick foam.

Razor preparation

Before proceeding directly to the procedure, it is necessary to prepare a razor. It needs to be "pulled" on a belt. This should be done from yourself, controlling the constant angle of the blade. If you do not follow this rule, you can damage the instrument.

The foam is whipped with a shaving brush and applied to slightly moistened skin. After shaving is completed, you need to apply a towel dipped in hot water to your face. Then you can apply a balm. Such measures will help to avoid irritation and redness of the skin. Can be worn on face if desired.

Disadvantages of dangerous shaving

If you figure it out, with a dangerous razor, then the disadvantages of this method can be minimized. But still, they are: people who use such razors note the high cost of the tool itself and the necessary accessories.

Great care must be taken when handling a straight razor. One awkward movement is enough to damage the skin. During the entire procedure, the main principle should be observed - do not drive the machine horizontally.

For men who need a straight razor, reviews will help you choose the right model. People practicing this method of getting rid of unwanted vegetation claim that this procedure is a kind of ritual. Shaving brings undoubted pleasure, and the skin becomes soft and smooth.

Straight Razor Benefits

A machine of this type has a number of advantages, which are completely pointless to dispute.

• Long service life. If you know how to shave with a straight razor, and handle it correctly, edit on a belt and do not cut various materials, then it will last a very long time. Sharpening and cleaning from dark spots will allow the machine to be passed on to the next generation.
• Close shave. Men who use straight razors are sure that they shave much cleaner than safety razors. At first it may seem that using it is difficult and inconvenient, but with experience it becomes clear that this is not at all the case.
• Saving. The advantage of a straight razor is that, although all the necessary accessories are not cheap, the funds are still saved. This is because you don't need to buy removable cassettes. The paste needs to be purchased about once a year, and the belt can last about thirty years if you treat it with care.

What do you need to know?

If a man does not know how to use a straight razor, and he has no experience, he is usually very worried the first time. Therefore, before the procedure, you need to calm down, because it is extremely important to have a firm hand. To get used to the machine, you can rotate it, try the sharpness of the blade, but do not start shaving.

The event will be held without difficulties and problems, if you remember three important rules:

• The razor must be well sharpened.
• The tilt angle is 30 degrees.
• The skin of the face should be taut.

If you do not follow these points, it will be difficult to understand how to properly shave with a straight razor. If the blade is not sharp enough, then cuts will remain on the face even with the most gentle and careful shaving. A thirty-degree angle is also justified: in this way, you can achieve maximum smoothness of the face and avoid irritation. Tight skin is probably the most important thing. If wrinkles form, cuts are guaranteed.

How to shave?

You need to start by preparing the skin. To shave smoothly, the face must be moistened and steamed. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a terry towel soaked in hot water. It is enough to apply it to the face for a couple of minutes.

Some men use but it is better to purchase a special foam. You need to start all movements in the direction of growth of the bristles. To achieve smoothness, it is necessary to hold the blade several times in one area.

First of all, you should shave the right side of the face, pulling the skin with the fingers of your left hand. When excess vegetation is removed, you can move on to the other side. In order not to miss areas, the skin must be properly stretched.

To shave the lower part of the face, you need to tilt your head to the right or left, and then tip it back and walk the blade along the chin. All actions should be performed carefully and slowly so as not to injure yourself. At first, the procedure will take a lot of time, but then things will go much faster.

Sometimes men doubt whether they need a straight razor. Feedback will help you make the final decision. Experts assure that this method of removing bristles is worthy of mastering it. No wonder this procedure is called "royal shave".

shaving head

The easiest way to make a smooth head is with the help of two tools: a machine tool and a straight razor. You can not start the procedure without lubricating the skin with a gel that forms a thick foam. It is more convenient to apply the product to the treated areas gradually, and not simultaneously to the entire surface. But shaving your head with a straight razor at the back of your head can be tricky. The second mirror will help to cope with this task. Although many men agree that it is disorienting, it is therefore better to carry out all actions by touch.

After the head becomes smooth, you need to thoroughly rinse off the remnants of the product and hair. Feeling the entire surface with your hands, you can determine where the bristles are left, and repeat the procedure again. Shave against hair growth.

Straight razors have been shaving for centuries. This tool is able to handle any type of bristle. When working with the device, you must follow a few rules that will protect a man from cuts and more serious injuries. By knowing how to shave with a straight razor, you can achieve perfectly smooth skin.

Working with requires certain skills, without which it is impossible to achieve perfectly smooth skin and avoid cuts. This tool shaves beards of any length, cutting hair almost to the root. As a result, even the smallest stubble does not remain on the face after the procedure.

Mustache owners shave their hairs when they are in a good mood. When working with a straight razor, you need to focus on the process as much as possible. When using this hair removal tool for the first time, it is recommended to start with flat areas: cheeks, legs, and so on. As you gain experience, you can move on to other zones.

Before each procedure, it is necessary to steam the face. Moreover, the harder the hair, the more carefully you need to approach this procedure. It is equally important to follow the rules for caring for a beard. With the right approach, the face will always remain beautiful and clean.

Basic principles for a perfect shave

Shave only with a sharp razor. Before each procedure, it is recommended to run the blade several times over the belt. The sharper the straight razor, the fewer cuts it will leave.

While shaving, pull the skin down. This increases the treatment area and reduces the risk of skin damage.

First, vegetation is removed according to hair growth, and then against it. To get smooth skin, you need to walk along the face three times, applying foam each time. The first approaches are performed with short strokes. In the future, at a time, you can remove the hair in large areas.

When shaving, do not put pressure on the straight razor. The blade must be in the correct position.

Preparing for the procedure and what you need

To shave your stubble you will need:

1. Straight razor. The tool is selected taking into account the preferences of the man and the type of vegetation. If a shavetka is used, then for coarse hair, you should purchase a device with two blades.
2. Shaving brush. The optimal material is badger pile. Synthetic shaving brush often causes irritation.
3. Sharpening stone and leather belt. The first is used to restore the sharpness of the blade, the second is used to straighten a straight razor.
4. Soap, shaving cream. Classical products are not used in this case, since they do not create foam of sufficient density.
5. Container for soaking shaving brush.
6. Hydrogen peroxide. It will be required for cuts to stop the blood.

In preparation for the procedure, you will need not only shaving accessories for shaving, but also a small towel that needs to be moistened with warm water. It is used as a compress on the face, thereby steaming the skin and opening the pores. If a man has stiff bristles, a warm towel should be applied twice.

Before the procedure, the shaving brush is soaked in water, after which the latter must be changed. The foam should be whipped in a separate container or directly on the face. It must be applied, moving from the center to the auricles. It is necessary to ensure that the foam is as dense as possible and does not spread over the face. You can start shaving with a dangerous razor after 3-5 minutes.

What is the danger?

It will be quite difficult for a beginner to cope with a dangerous razor. In the first few times, avoiding cuts is almost impossible. That is why professionals recommend starting with flat surfaces in order to learn how to use a straight razor.

It is important not to rush, trying to remove all the hair at a time. This is especially true when the skin is treated in the neck area. If bleeding occurs, hydrogen peroxide should be applied immediately to the wound. In more complex cases, you need to seek help from a doctor.

Shaving Rules and Techniques

There are several ways to properly shave with a straight razor. Techniques vary depending on the position of the instrument in the hand. However, the angle of inclination of the "fear" is always constant. This reduces the chance of skin damage when shaving hairs.

How to hold a razor

Before you start shaving, you need to decide, firstly, how to hold a straight razor, and, secondly, choose the best technique for yourself:

1. The little finger is placed in the recess in the shank area, and the thumb rests on the heel from below the straight razor neck. The remaining fingers are fixed on the upper part of the device along the earl.
2. The little finger is placed in a recess near the shank. The thumb rests on the inside of the earl, the rest are on the outside.
3. The index and middle fingers are fixed on the inside of the earl. The little finger is placed in a recess near the shank. The thumb is placed on the butt in the place where the blade connects to the shank, and the ring finger is placed on the inside of the shank. When shaving in this case, the handle of a dangerous razor should fit snugly against the palm of your hand.

The last technique of holding the tool is not usually used by hairdressers. However, this method is suitable for shaving facial or body hair. This technique is also used in cases where others cannot be used.

Correct skin tightening

The rules for using a dangerous razor provide for the mandatory tightening of the skin during the entire procedure. The dermis must be taken away in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. The skin is pulled with one finger before shaving begins. It should be at a distance of 2-3 cm from the blade.

As a result, it turns out that shaving with a dangerous razor is carried out as follows:

• the skin is stretched;
• the blade is applied to the face;
• hair is cut;
• the instrument is removed and a new area of ​​skin is stretched.

The above algorithm must always be observed. This is especially true when the hair on the cheeks is removed.

Regardless of the type of straight razor (classic, with a blade with replaceable blades), the tool should only move at a certain angle during shaving. This maximizes the effectiveness of the procedure and reduces the risk of skin damage. The blade should be tilted at an angle of 30-40 degrees.

Use of "fear" on other parts of the body

Regardless of which part of the body is being treated, it is necessary to follow the same shaving technique with a straight razor. That is, the angle of the blade to the skin should be 30-40 degrees. Before each procedure, the body should be steamed with warm compresses. In addition, it is necessary to apply a foam of a dense consistency to the skin.

Certain difficulties arise when hair is removed with a straight razor on the legs. The skin on some parts of the lower extremities is worse stretched than, for example, on the face. In addition, it is not recommended to remove vegetation with a straight razor in the bikini area.

But despite the fact that such a tool is suitable for shaving on any part of the body, the device is traditionally used to treat the face.

Face treatment for growth and against hair growth

The straight razor hair removal technique is somewhat different depending on which part of the face is being treated. Removal of vegetation is first carried out in the direction of hair growth, and then against growth. In both cases, before shaving, it is necessary to apply foam to the skin. The order of the procedure does not change depending on which side of the face is being treated.

As an example, the first method of holding a straight razor will be considered. Shaving with a straight razor starts from the temple line. First, a small amount of foam is removed with a blade along with the hair. It is important to remember to stretch the skin before shaving, keeping your finger at a distance of 2-3 cm. The blade gradually lowers the lower jaw. An area of ​​a few centimeters should be treated at a time.

Having reached the middle of the cheek, you need to turn the blade towards the earlobe. The straight razor moves further towards the jaw. Often in this area, the hair is pulled in different directions. In such cases, the blade should be set so that it does not move with growth.

In the area where the jaw bends, the razor turns downward and moves towards the neck. When processing this part of the face, care must be taken, as you can cut your ear. It is recommended to pull it to the side so as not to hurt.

After that, the device must be taken in the third way (the handle rests on the wrist). A dangerous razor is exposed in the middle part of the cheek so that its end is located below the cheekbone line. Next, shaving is carried out towards the mustache, capturing a small part of the nasolabial triangle zone.

Having reached the corner of the mouth, you need to lower the blade so that it coincides with the line of the lips. Hair here often grows in a small cavity. To remove vegetation, the cheek should be slightly raised from the inside with the tongue.

Then, with caution, you need to shave off the hair to the center of the chin, after which the blade is turned towards the lower lip. The next step is to start shaving your mustache. "Opaska" in this case must be kept in the first way. Hair should be cut in short and light strokes. The blade in this zone should go from right to left.

Holding the “fear” in the first way, you need to move to the chin and proceed to remove the vegetation towards the middle of the jaw. The skin in this area should be stretched with two hoops to the right and left. At the end, the vegetation on the neck is removed.

Shaving the left side of the face is carried out in a similar way.

In the second step, the foam is reapplied to the skin. Then the blade is placed against the direction of hair growth. The blade is placed on the neck and moves towards the temples. At the second stage, "fear" is kept in a third way. Having reached the cheek, the razor must be turned towards the chin. At the end, the remaining hair on the central part of the neck is removed.

How to deal with scratches and cuts?

After the second shaving step, wash your face with cold water. Then you need to apply lotion or cream to the skin.

More often, during shaving, the middle part of the neck or the area of ​​​​the nasolabial triangle suffer from cuts. If the skin is damaged, it is necessary to stop the blood by pressing the problem area with your finger. Then the site is treated with an antiseptic composition (hydrogen peroxide) and sealed with a plaster.

Men shave at different intervals. It is enough for someone to shave off the vegetation once every 5-7 days, others are forced to take care of their face twice a day. The stiffer the bristle, the more carefully it needs to be shaved. Owners of such vegetation are not suitable for conventional machine and electric razors. They are almost impossible to shave cleanly, and stubble appears quite quickly. They scratch the skin and can cause inflammation. The only correct solution for such people is a straight razor.

If you have a perfectly sharpened, high-quality straight razor, or simply "careful", and you have mastered the technique of shaving, then you can get rid of the bristles for a long time. "Opaska" practically does not cause irritation and does not leave cuts. Of course, for this you need to use the correct shaving technique with a straight razor and train a lot.

Shaving with caution is a rather complicated, but at the same time intuitive procedure. To learn how to properly handle such a tool, you need a lot of practice. And it is better to immediately learn the correct technique in order to avoid mistakes and quickly master the necessary skills.

What are the main principles of a clean shave?

The sharper the razor, the less stubble

The sharpness of the blade is a fundamental condition for the correct shaving technique with a straight razor. A poorly sharpened blade cuts the bristles poorly. They have to work with more effort or at a sharper angle. All this leads only to irritation on the skin, the risk of cuts and causes discomfort. But it does not guarantee a clean shave.

You need to shave so that the blade slides over your face. "Opaska" should be at a strictly defined angle and you need to move it in the right direction.

Basic ways to hold a razor

For those who want to understand how to shave with a straight razor, it's worth learning how to hold it first. There are three basic ways to hold a tool in your hand (Fig. 1):

Method one. The little finger is on the notch of the shank, the thumb is on the bottom of the neck and rests on the heel. The rest of the fingers are on the top of the instrument's earl.

Method two. The little finger is on the tail notch, the thumb is on the flat section of the erl on the inside, the other fingers, on the contrary, are on the outside. This technique is almost identical to the first, the differences are in the direction of "fear". In this method, the sting looks up.

Method three. The razor blade looks up. The middle and index fingers are on the inside of the erl, the ring finger holds the inside of the shank, and the little finger is on the tail notch. The large one holds the butt where the shank connects to the blade. The handle of the "fear" should fit snugly to the wrist.

The last, third, technique, how to shave with a dangerous razor, is considered non-standard, it is not found in the specialized literature for hairdressers and was invented empirically. But it is being used. It is useful in cases where the first two methods cannot be applied (for example, when the hands block the view), while the “fear” should move “along the hair”. For those who plan to shave on their own, this technique must be studied.

When working with any of the methods of shaving, you should remember the general rule: the "guard" should remove hair easily, she does not need to press hard.

Hair angle

Probably everyone knows that the hair on the skin does not grow exactly up, but at a certain slope. This angle is approximately the same for individual hairs that grow on the same area of ​​the skin. This is another important point to keep in mind when working with caution.

How to stretch the skin

The technique of shaving with a dangerous razor provides for the obligatory stretching of the skin of the face. It is pulled in the opposite direction from the direction of the razor. Remember that it is worth stretching the skin near the blade before any new movement of the tool. The skin is stretched with one finger. It should lie 2-3 centimeters from the instrument. It is most convenient to use the index or middle finger of the left hand if shaving is right-handed, or the right hand if left-handed.

It is clear that to work with "fear" you need to use both hands: one is holding the tool, and the other is involved in stretching the skin. Without this, a smooth shave will not work. How to properly stretch and how to shave with a dangerous razor can be viewed on ours.

Procedure: a skin area is stretched, a blade is placed, vegetation is cut off, the tool is taken away from the face. Next, a new section is stretched, a “fear” is attached, and the hair is cut off again.

Particular attention should be paid to those areas that do not have natural tension. For example, cheeks. Here you should do a stretch especially well, otherwise there is a risk of injury.

Slope and direction of "fear"

The tool always moves head first. You should make sure that he cuts the hair at an angle. This ensures an efficient and painless shave. The inclination of the blade to the surface of the face should be from 30 to 40 ° and not less.

It is not difficult to understand how to shave with a straight razor correctly: you need to work with the tool often and easily, without pressure, the brush is involved in the movement, the manipulations are rhythmic and light. This is the key to a smooth and clean shave. You can’t forcefully put pressure on the “fear” or “include” the whole hand in the work. This will only lead to the uprooting of vegetation and, as a result, irritation and pain.

Straight razor basics

Preparatory stage

They begin to shave from the temple. It is difficult for beginners to immediately put the razor at the right angle, so first it is better to lay the blade flat, and then slightly raise the back of the “guard” by 30–40 °. Next, move the tool in the direction of shaving. This is done easily, without pressure on the skin. If the blade is sharp, it will cut hair without any problems.

Usually they shave in two approaches. First, they pass with the blade in the direction of hair growth (according to growth), and then vice versa (against growth). In the first case, it is possible to get rid of the bulk of the vegetation, but tiny tips of the hair remain on the skin. To get rid of them, they pass with a razor a second time. Before this, the face is again lathered or moistened with warm water. After repeated shaving, the skin becomes perfectly smooth.

How to shave the right side of the face according to height

Shaving with a straight razor, as shown in the video, starts from the temple line, then the blade descends to the cheek (Fig. 2, I-1). The tool is held in the first way. Before starting, it is worth removing the foam from the temple a little (in order to put the blade exactly on its edging). In the temple area, skin tightening and hair shaving are carried out simultaneously. With light manipulations of the hand, the first couple of centimeters are shaved down. Further, the "fear" moves to the lower jaw. Hair cutting must be accompanied by skin tightening. The finger should be 1-2 centimeters from the "fear".

In the middle of the cheek, the blade is slightly turned towards the lobe, and the “fear” moves towards the jaw (Fig. 2, I-2). It happens that in the corner of the jaw the hairs grow in different directions, in this case the blade should be placed so that it shaves along the growth.

Having reached the bend of the jaw, the instrument is turned and continue moving down to the neck. In this place, it is especially important to carefully cut off the vegetation near the ear. Often there is a bulge or small folds of skin that are easy enough to hit with a blade and cut yourself. How to shave with a dangerous razor so as not to get injured? With the thumb, the ear is slightly moved to the side, if there are no folds, then when working near the ear, it still needs to be slightly closed with the hand.

Next, the tool is taken in the third way. "Warning" is placed in the middle of the cheek, so that its end lies below the cheekbone. So they shave, heading towards the lips. At the same time, passing along the jaw bulge and capturing a small part of the face in the area of ​​the mustache (Fig. 2, III-3). Approaching the corner of the mouth, the toe of the "fear" should be lowered a little lower, so that in the end it coincides with the line of the mouth. Further, the blade passes in the area of ​​the so-called undercoats (hair that grows near the lower lip). It is not always possible to shave them off the first time, as they are in a small depression. In this case, a simple technique will help: you need to slightly raise this place with your tongue. A bulge will form that will be easy to shave off. How to do this while shaving with a straight razor is shown in. In the process, you always need to help yourself with the muscles of the face and tongue. This greatly facilitates shaving and saves from injury.

In the third way, the vegetation is cut to the center of the chin, until the tip of the “fear” and the nose are in one line (it’s even better to take the razor a little further than this line). On this part of the face, you should be especially careful: the chin is difficult to shave, so you need to keep the "fear" correctly.

Then the instrument is taken using the method No. 2 or No. 3 and the hair is cut from the chin to the lip (Fig. 2, II–III–4). Here you should be extremely careful and stop the "fear" in time. Otherwise, the blade will cut into the lower lip, which has a small protrusion. There are several areas on the face that are prone to injury: Adam's apple, ear and lips. In these places, you should shave with special attention.

The next step is to shave your mustache. This is a difficult area: here the hair grows from top to bottom and, according to the rules of shaving, the blade should fall from the nose to the upper lip. But this is difficult to do, because the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe skin is too small. And there is also a high probability of hurting the lip and leaving a cut. How to shave with a dangerous razor in this case? Very simple. A person who shaves himself can help himself a little with facial muscles and make the skin where necessary, a little wider and smoother. Or pull the tip of the nose with your hand, in which case the skin will also stretch and become even.

In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mustache, "fear" is kept in the first way. The hair is cut off with light and short manipulations of the instrument (Fig. 2, I–5).

The side part of the mustache is shaved from right to left (Fig. 2, III-6). Only the tip of the razor is involved in the work. The instrument is held in a third way. The blade is led to the middle of the mustache, if you shave higher, you can injure the upper lip.

Then the vegetation is cut from the chin to the middle of the jaw (Fig. 2, I-7). "Opaska" is kept in the first way. Here the skin is stretched a little differently than usual: this time the skin is stretched in two directions. This is easy to do with two fingers. One is on the chin, and the second is on the jaw, the “fear” is between them. It should be borne in mind that in this case the skin becomes less elastic, which means that the risk of injury increases. Therefore, at this stage, you need to work with the tool easily, without pressure and observe the angle of hair trimming. Passing through this area, you should remove the hair a little lower than the jaw bone.

The final step in shaving this part of the face is the neck (Fig. 2, I–8:10). Here it is worth paying increased attention to the skin in the region of the Adam's apple, where cuts often occur. To avoid them, the following trick is used: the skin from the Adam's apple is pulled a little to the side and shaved there. The tool is held in the second way.

Shaving "on the hair", you should monitor the quality of work. The face should be clean, without "bushes" of hair and unshaven areas.

How to shave the left side of the face according to height

The tool is taken in the first way. The “fear” sock is placed so that the hands do not interfere with the review. Shaving with a dangerous razor (this can be seen in the video) starts from the temple (Fig. 3, I-1). First, shave off 20-30 mm from the edging line. It is important that the cut lines on both sides are at the same level. To do this, it is convenient to navigate along the conditional line of the eyes. The blade should lie on the temple approximately parallel to this landmark. From the temple, "fear" descends down to the cheek.

Next, you should shave from the middle of the cheek down to the chin (Fig. 3, II-2). "Warning" is set slightly below the cheekbone so that the cutting edge creates a conditional line from the eye to the earlobe. Along the path of the razor, the hair is shaved in the area of ​​​​the whiskers and the lower part of the left mustache. "Warning" should be kept in the second way. If the blade cannot cover the entire soaped surface at once, then after the first pass with the razor, the procedure should be repeated, capturing the soaped areas.

During this shaving step, half of the mustache is shaved off. But sometimes this is not enough, and you need to help yourself by lifting the tip of the nose and removing the vegetation (Fig. 3, I–3). In this case, the first method of holding the razor is used.

Based on the correct shaving technique with a straight razor, the next step is to trim the remaining hair in the mustache area. This is done from left to right with small advances of the razor. Vegetation is cut from the side in the direction of its growth. "Opaska" is kept in the second way (Fig. 3, II-4).

Then the blade is placed near the lobe and the vegetation is removed to the chin (Fig. 3, II-5). The skin is stretched diagonally - up and to the ear. If the face is thin, then shaving below the jaw, the skin is pulled only up.

If during the first approach it is not possible to remove the hair over the entire width of the area, then the procedure should be repeated again, but already go through those places where the soap "islands" remain.

Working with the right side of the face, it is possible to almost completely shave off the area from the top of the chin to the lip. But if there are unremoved hairs, then now is the time to remove them. "Opaska" is taken by method No. 2 or No. 3 and the vegetation is removed (Fig. 3, II–III–6).

The next step is to shave the neck. First, they pass with a blade from the chin to the Adam's apple, bypassing it on the left side. You can’t shave the Adam’s apple itself, as mentioned above, it threatens with cuts. It is necessary to pull the skin to the side and only then remove the hair. Then the rest of the neck is shaved. In one approach, a narrow strip of vegetation should be shaved off (Fig. 3, I–8:10), the razor is placed in the lower part of the jaw and carried until the end of the hairline. "Opaska" is kept in the first way.

Sometimes the hair at the very bottom of the neck grows in the opposite direction - from the bottom up. How to shave with a dangerous razor here: you need to change the direction of the tool, while you need to take it with the second trick.

How to shave the right side of the face against the height

Re-shave is necessary to shave off the remnants of hair that remained after the first stage of the procedure. And also to make the skin perfectly smooth and clean-shaven.

Before you shave again, be sure to lather your face again. For people whose bristles are not too hard, you can simply moisten your face with warm water. But such a procedure must be done necessarily.

When shaving with a dangerous razor, as follows from the video, the "fear" moves against the growth of vegetation. Hair removal starts from the neck and ends near the temples. Work on the right side of the face is done only in the third way. When shaving the stubble, the skin is also pulled in the opposite direction of the razor (Fig. 4).

So, first you should go through the right side of the neck with a razor (the one below the ear) from the bottom up, then you need to smoothly move to the cheek. For people with a thin face, the best place to go is near the ear, around the corner of the lower jaw. Those who have a full face can go anywhere.

Having finished work on the cheek, the razor rises to the temple. Further, again from the cheek, the "fear" moves to the chin. At the same time, the bristles of the lower part of the right mustache and in the region of the corner of the mouth are removed.

At the end of the procedure, you need to shave off the stubble on the neck. As at the very beginning, the tool should move up, from the Adam's apple to the very chin.

How to shave the left side of the face against the height

This part of the face is also re-lathered or moistened with warm water. The left side is shaved only in the second way.

The sequence of passing through the "fear" is similar to shaving the right side (Fig. 5). First, from the neck, the blade is led up, near the lobe, they bend around the corner of the jaw and go to the temple. Further from the middle of the cheek, the razor is led to the chin. Then the left mustache is shaved, the vegetation in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corner of the mouth and the top of the chin. In conclusion, the razor passes the neck from the bottom - up, to the jawbone.

If two parts of the face are shaved, the final touch remains - the repeated removal of hair above and below the lips. In the area of ​​​​the mustache, the “fear” moves “along the hair”, that is, from top to bottom. Under the lip - shaved from the bottom up. During the procedure, the razor is held in the second way.

If, after repeated shaving, “islands” of the hairline still remain, then they are soaped again and cut off against hair growth.

From the article above, it became clear how to shave with a dangerous razor. To do it right, get smooth, clean-shaven skin and not get injured, you should remember the basic rules:

• learn the basic ways of holding a tool in your hand;
• remove hair only at a certain angle;
• the blade should always be as sharp as possible;
• first walk the tool in the direction of hair growth, and then in the opposite direction.